There is only one beta hydroxy acid (BHA) ? salicylic acid. The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is oil-based solution. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore.
Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
How Beta Hydroxy Acid Works
One of the common Beta Hydroxy Acids is salicylic acid, commonly used in acne treatment for almost a decade. Beta Hydroxy Acids works mainly as an exfoliant. It causes the cells of the epidermis to become ?unglued? allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Beta hydroxy acid found in skin-care products works best in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
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Beta Hydroxy Acid and Side affects
- The use of beta hydroxy acid (BHA) can increase sun sensitivity by 50% causing an interesting dilemma. It appears that beta hydroxy acid may be able to reverse some of the damage caused by photoaging, but at the same time it makes the skin more susceptible to photoaging.
- Beta hydroxy acid appears to be less irritating than alpha hydroxy acid even though it penetrates deeper into the pore. Despite that, beta hydroxy acid can still cause skin irritation. Symptoms of irritation include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. People with darker colored skin are at a higher risk of scarring pigment changes with beta hydroxy acid.
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Using a Beta Hydroxy Acid
Beta hydroxy acid is found in a variety of skin care products including moisturizers, cleansers, eye cream, sunscreen, and foundations. Here are some guidelines to use when trying to decide which hydroxy acid formulation to use:
- It is best to pick one product that contains the proper formulation of beta hydroxy acid to use as your exfoliate, and then choose other skin care products or cosmetics that don?t contain hydroxy acids to reduce the likelihood of skin irritation.
- Cleansers containing beta hydroxy acid are not very effective because the beta hydroxy acid must be absorbed in the skin to work. Cleansers are washed off before this absorption occurs.
- At this time there are no effective products that combine beta hydroxy acid and sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make the beta hydroxy acid effective.
- Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an alpha hydroxy acid product.
- Unlike alpha hydroxy acid that must be listed in the top 3 ingredients to indicate the appropriate concentration, beta hydroxy acid can be listed in the middle or even towards the bottom of the ingredient list because it is effective at lower concentrations.
Personal Opinion
BHA is the main ingredient of the acne skincare treatments and the famous ones are such as ?Paula?s choice Exfoliating 2% BHA Gel, Dermadoctor AHA/BHA Acne Cleanser, Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser.
The most well-known among people having acne problem is the Paula?s choice.? I ever used it, too, but later, I got many pimples on my face and it should be the effect of BHA.? After that, I had to stop to apply Paula?s choice.? HOWEVER, my friends got along very well with Paula?s choice: Their face became clearer and have 1-3 pimples monthly.
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Source: http://www.akcesoria-kosmetyczne.pl/skin-care/what-is-beta-hydroxy-acids/
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